Over The Sea Day 4 – Towards Tobermory

In which Sid and Doris sort out Flyer ll and go by sea to Tobermory.

The day started well with the no rain, with wind blowing gently into our berth and the tide floating us out. Sid as chief boat crasher was charmed to find Flyer reverses without drama.

Once out down the buoyed channel and with a bit of sea room we start to put up the sails. Hmmm. The boat has not been sailed for months and all three reefing lines have been carefully pulled through for its winter storage.  Sid still has the wheel so it is Doris up to the mast, back to the clutches, heaving at the back of the boom, repeat above steps several times, freeing it all up. Maybe there is something good about in mast furling.

We settled on two reefs as the gusts were up to 20 knots apparent. As the boat and tide were giving six knots that meant the wind was really 26 knots from behind. After a certain amount of experiment we centred the main and went with only the headsail doing the work. It was a very quiet point of sail requiring only a few gybes to keep on up the Sound of Mull.

For company we mostly had the CalMac ferries but did spot cormorants, duck, an oyster catcher and a dolphin. There are a couple of other boats visible in the distance, some goosewinging with main out one side and genoa out the other. We used to do that with our boat Eric, but you need to know your boat.  Maybe later in this trip.

We were wearing full bright yellow ocean foul weather kit and the rain ran off. Good kit is just a delight.  Doris took turns at the helm but found that the spray hood was designed for people of a certain height to be able to see over it, and alas she is not of that height.

 

Aside from the lighthouses and buoys this is peaceful countryside and there are not a lot of landmarks. The Drimnim estate’s St Columba’s  chapel is white and crenellated and easy to see even on a rainy day. It was built by a Catholic family that came to the area in the early years of Victoria’s reign to the disapprobation of the Protestant locals. Worshippers came from as far as Ardnamurchan Point (for fans of the BBC shipping forecast). And for our Antipodean reader this was where Mary McKillop, Australia’s first saint, came to worship on her visit in the late 19th century. The estate was sold in 1943 and the chapel fell into ruin, to be resurrected in the 21st century as a music venue.

Coming into Tobermory we fender up and put lines both sides having been asked to use berth 27 without any guidance as to where berth 27 is. After a vairy careful approach through the trots we can’t see any berth numbers, but there are lots of free slots.  We pick a wide berth where we will be slowed by the wind as we go in and where we will be blown onto the starboard pontoon. The boat crasher in chief edges it gently into the slot and waits for the wind to do its share. Doris lassos the mid cleat, all is well, another No Fuss Mooring. As we tie up we find we are in slot 27. Just luck.  Soon we are taking lines for our new neighbours, two women on a 25’ boat sailing from the Isle of Wight westward around Great Britain. More hats.

Final entertainment of the day is  the arrival of the Nova Spero, a luxury liner for eleven people cruising the Hebrides. The helm makes a bit of mess of getting on the jetty and leans on a nearby workboat while turning; the enormous diesel makes oily smoke that Greta has warned us about. Still nobody shouted.

The rain has paused for a moment. We will rush out into town before the next front comes through, and Sid can have a look for his Conveyance of the Day.

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