Day 24 In Esztergom In Search of Museums

In which Sid and Doris fail to find a really Bonkers museum but take the opportunity to reflect on other museums they have seen so far.

The Portobello Hotel has great indoor spaces and terraces so we have decided that a day’s Planning is in order.  Before leaving we planned the first three weeks in some detail, but now we wanted to check that we can really see a feasible route to Istanbul.  Increasingly the length of each day is going to be controlled by the availability of towns with accommodation – hence the increasing frequency of camping-cyclists we are meeting on the route.  Our compromise is that we’d rather modify the route to find accommodation rather than dragging along a full set of camping kit… time to make sure that theory really works.

Three hours later we have a more-or-less convincing route which looks like we can get there in another 22 days including rest days and a bit of contingency.  Time to leave the e-routing devices behind and hit the town in search of a museum.

Sid and Doris have a very definite view on museums.  There is little point on an Epic Journey trying to see world-spanning collections of art or artefacts.  They will all blur into one, and once you are in the museum you forget which town/country you are in.  However, it’s really important that you do stop and look at things, as otherwise you could get obsessed with Making Progress and forget to actually interact with the countryside.  We owe it to our audience – no! we owe it to ourselves! – to get the flavour of the countryside we are pedalling through.

So a church is worth a visit although the more local or strange the better – we were intrigued by the Neuer Dom in Linz because it was New Gothic, and the cathedral/basilica here in Esztregom is satisfyingly weird.

 

 “Build it big.  No, bigger than that.  No, really, really big.  Make it so that when people look at it they say ‘My God that is a big church’, and if they think it’s a bit ugly then so what.  More fool them.”  (Although it was, we think, comprehensively upstaged by the Magic Rally fairground ride.

But what we do like is a small and focused museum.  This started with some good friends of ours, Simon Nash and Rachael Atkinson, together known as The Specs for reasons I now forget.  They have since happily gone their separate ways, but together the four of us had a great time one year exploring the Buckie Drifter museum.  Please do go there if you are ever in Buckie (north Scotland), it featured some printed-material stuffed herrings which still live on in my memory.  But also when they lived near Chester, there was a local “Salt Museum” which we failed to go to over several years.  So now when we see a sign to something like a “Salt Museum” we know that we have to go there.

Which meant that two days ago in Gyor, when we saw a signpost to a “‘Tiled Stove Museum”, 5 mins walk, we simply had to go there.  Mysteriously, even though Sid looked it up on his phone and saw that it was due to have closed half an hour previously, we still decided we needed to walk there.  So that is the sort of people your correspondents are, they will walk to a knowingly-closed and highly-pointless micro-museum.

And to our delight it was actually open.

Then yesterday, on the staggeringly horrible road leading to Esztergom, we saw a sign to “Cement Museum and Cafe”.  How could we not stop?

And today we were so hopeful of seeing the “Danube Waterworks Museum”. Mifter Bat was probably in for a sad disappointment, but in fact we all were because it was closed for renovation.
We will quest on in search of micro-museums for our, and your, entertainment.  Note that we did not visit either the Lego Museum or the Sex Machines Museum in Prague (see Doris’s post 27th May), as the whole of Prague was full of “museums” which were actually a handful of so-called exhibits in front of a tatty old shop, humph garumph.
PS Here is today’s mystery Old Crock.  And behind him a camper van ha ha.

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